The greatest giant land tortoise photograph of all time.

Tuesday September 2nd, 2014.

Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos Islands, Ecuador

Its 7am and we are slowly waking from the best 13 hours of uninterrupted sleep that has ever occurred in history. The sun is up before us (for the first time what seems like forever) and we are very well rested. Today we will be exploring the island of Santa Cruz, but first we have time to go into town for coffee and breakfast.

We are staying in Puerto Ayora, which is one of 2 towns with hotels located on the islands (this town is much larger than Puerto Villamil, which is located on Isla Isabela). We quickly find an open restaurant and sit at an outside table and begin pursuing the menu for the perfect breakfast. There are many options and, after almost of week of no food decisions, I am feeling overwhelmed. Eventually we both put in orders for very large plates of breakfast food. I also order coffee and Laura orders a cappuccino. Breakfast is lovely and we have plenty of time to relax, return to the hotel, and get ready for the day.

Right at 8am, Alexandria and our driver arrive at the hotel. Our first stop is El Garrapatero, a beautiful beach. When we arrive it is completely empty except for a guy renting kayaks. Alexandria wanders off and Laura and I are left alone on the most beautiful beach of all time. I am feeling adventurous so I go off to secure a kayak for a quick paddle. I have to make the transaction in Spanish, but renting a kayak is a pretty basic task, so I flub my way through it. I spend about 30 minutes paddling around, but eventually get scared and turn around to join Laura on the beach. We sit quietly and intermittently wander in and out of the water. This is very tranquil.

After the beach Alexandria takes us to the highlands where the weather changes drastically and we are able to see views of the entire island. She talks a little bit about life on the islands and takes a few pictures of Laura and I. She says that I look better without my hat, so I should make sure to take it off for photos. In hindsight, I agree.

Next we are off to the see the giant land tortoises. This is going to be cool. As we are driving to the tortoise farm we see our first giant tortoise drinking water out of a make shift water trough close to the edge of the property. It is super cool and we take 10 pictures each. Only a few minutes later we are stopped because one of the giants is taking a nap in the middle of the road. We all get out of the truck and are slowly approaching when a small bus approaches from the other direction. It soon becomes clear that the tortoise is not going to move on his own accord. Our driver and the bus driver both have a plan though. We are all to grab part of the shell and drag the 300 pound creature out of the way. Laura and Alexandria are immediately on the case. Meanwhile, I am on my camera phone. After some grunting and heavy lifting the group eventually clears the road. We are free to make the rest of the drive to the main house at the farm.

After looking around the main area for a few minutes, we all sit at a table in an open air dining area. We are served an amazingly delicious piece of tuna, some vegetables, and plantain chips with hot sauce. This will be our best meal in the Galapagos. When lunch is over we watch a short documentary on the glory of the Galapagos.

As it turns out the tortoise farm is filled with very mean ants and we are not allowed to walk around without large rubber boots. Of course we do not have socks, so we both have to go barefoot in the large boots. It doesn’t matter though, because we are about to enter land tortoise-plalooza. There are so many tortoises, it is truly unbelievable. Every time I think I have taken my last photo another opportunity presents itself; we are both in hot pursuit of the greatest giant land tortoise photograph of all time.

Once we are done with our loop of the farm (and our sockless feet are officially swimming in sweat) we load back into the truck and head into town. Its only 5pm, so Laura and I have some time to kill before dinner. Alexandria suggests that we go to the Darwin Center and tortoise hatchery and drops us close by. We walk around for a little bit, see baby tortoises, a few land lizards and I finally get my picture next to the Darwin Research Station sign (a major check on my bucket list). We also spend some time at the cheesy tourist shops just outside of the Research Station.

As it becomes dark we head back to our hotel to shower and make attempt #2 at going to dinner. This time around we are successful. We end up eating at one of two restaurants that are included in our tour package. The menu is not impressive and neither is the food. We both end up eating veggie pasta and Laura chokes down a glass of Ecuadorian wine.  

After dinner we do our best to find a bar to relax and have a few drinks. Everywhere is basically empty, but that does not stop us. A few rounds later, we wander back to the hotel for the night.

Tomorrow we go to Santa Fe Island!